Navarra’s beauty is captivating. The multitude of glorious vistas from the resplendent, snow capped Pyrenean peaks in the north through the river laced, lush green pastures and rolling foothills of the centre down to the arid flatlands of the Ebro valley in the south makes this probably the most beautiful province in Spain. This former kingdom is one of the under explored jewels of this emotive country.

The whole region is one of outstanding natural beauty with a widely varied topography from the cooler uplands where the snowy peaks tower over pine forests covered slopes and awesome rugged canyons or pristine valleys with terraced vineyards surrounding picturesque ancient villages. In the south sun drenched mountains overlook valleys supporting old garnacha vines and prolific market gardens irrigated by the Ebro, Argo and Aragón rivers.

It was only with the arrival of the Romans around 100BC that Navarra started to be separated from Basque influence and become a separate entity. There are many traces of the Roman occupation during the early centuries AD, not least in Pamplona and further south at Funes where a stone wine vat and remains of one of their old wine cellars have been unearthed. After 1119 when the Moors were pushed south, Rey Don Sancho the Great expanded his kingdom, but was then variously under the influence of France, Catalonia and Aragón and at one time the kingdoms stretched from Bordeaux to Naples. When Aragón and Castile were unified by the marriage of the Catholic Monarchs, Ferdinand II and Isabella, in the 15th century the consolidation of Spain as one nation began. Navarra resisted fiercely any attempt to include it until 1515, but from that date it became part of the new Spain and the official language became pure Spanish (Castillian).

Navarra’s northern boundary forms part of central northern Spain’s border with France to the east of Guipuzcoa on the Bay of Biscay. To the east is Aragón but it’s the proximity to the Basque Country on which most discussion centres. The centuries of cultural exchange have led to a significant Basque influence in Navarra, especially the northwest, and many Basques would prefer it to be part of their region. However, the staunchly independent Navarrines are determined to retain their unique status as a ‘Communidad Foral’, an accolade that entitles the autonomous government a special status for tax collecting on behalf of the Central Government, not something lightly granted.

They are a warm and friendly people though one could be forgiven for doubting this when they bundle themselves up against the freezing winter winds blowing south from the Pyrenees. They reflect the delightful ambience of their province and an ingrained confidence of those from an influential and very independent region. Navarra has a significant importance for the Pilgrims’ Route to Santiago de Compostella in Galicia and is reflected widely across the region starting at the border and Augustinian Abbey at Roncesvalles with its 9th century church built by Charlemagne. It descends through Pamplona city to Puente la Reina past the Monastery at Irache near Estella on to Viana on the border with La Rioja.

There are few places where one can eat better than in Navarra, not least because of an abundance of market garden produce, whether fresh vegetables or fruit, and lovely cheeses. They take pride in the local beef, which is noted for being tender and with little muscular fat, and their juicy lamb, let alone the copious amounts of seafood from the Bilbao market.